Sleepy Reindeer. Shot with Sony DSC-H2 - ISO 80 | Aperture Priority Mode F4.5 | 1/125s
Wednesday, 26 December 2007
Tuesday, 18 December 2007
Wednesday, 12 December 2007
Basic techniques for better images - Focus Lock
Most digital cameras have a two-stage shutter button. When you press it halfway down, it sets and locks focus and exposure. Some cameras beep and illuminate a lamp or frame in the viewfinder when these readings are locked in. If you don't release the shutter button you can then recompose the image and the settings remain unchanged. This procedure normally locks exposure too, but if you first use AE Lock to lock exposure, you can then lock focus independently.
If the camera doesn't take the picture after fully depressing the shutter button, it most probably means that you are too close to the subject for the camera to focus on it (Read the user manual to find out your camera minimum focusing distance). Fix the problem by release the shutter button, stepping back a foot or two, and then pressing the shutter button again.
Step-by-step guide:
1. Look through the viewfinder and position its focus point on the main subject.
2. Press the shutter button halfway down, until the green focus-OK lamp in the viewfinder eyepiece glows steadily or the focus lock beep-signal is heard.
3. Holding the shutter button halfway down, reorient the camera so that your desired composition appears in the viewfinder.
4. Press the shutter button all the way down to take the picture.
5. Done!
If the camera doesn't take the picture after fully depressing the shutter button, it most probably means that you are too close to the subject for the camera to focus on it (Read the user manual to find out your camera minimum focusing distance). Fix the problem by release the shutter button, stepping back a foot or two, and then pressing the shutter button again.
Step-by-step guide:
1. Look through the viewfinder and position its focus point on the main subject.
2. Press the shutter button halfway down, until the green focus-OK lamp in the viewfinder eyepiece glows steadily or the focus lock beep-signal is heard.
3. Holding the shutter button halfway down, reorient the camera so that your desired composition appears in the viewfinder.
4. Press the shutter button all the way down to take the picture.
5. Done!
Tuesday, 4 December 2007
Digital Camera - SLR vs Compact
SLR is an acronym for a Single Lens Reflex. The difference between an SLR and a compact camera is that the SLR will allow you to use a variety of lenses with different focal lengths.
Differences Between SLR and Compact Cameras (Basic)
DSLR cameras' sensor are much bigger and consequently much more expensive than the thumbnail-size sensors found in campat cameras. Larger sensors are the secret to why 6 megapixels from a DSLR camera beat 6 megapixels from a compact camera. To spread the same number of pixels over a larger sensor area, the pixels must be bigger. These bigger photosites gather more light, so they produce less-noisy images, capture greater dynamic range, and perform much better at high ISO settings.
Differences Between SLR and Compact Cameras (Basic)
| SLR | Compact |
| Interchangeable lenses | One attached lens |
| TTL (Through The Lens) viewfinder — when you look through the viewfinder of a SLR, you are seeing what the lens sees. If the image is out of focus, the photo will be out of focus. | The viewfinder is separate from the lens and shows you an image of the scene in front of you. The lens can be out of focus, but your view in the viewfinder will be sharp. |
| Bulky and heavy | Sleek and small, except the super-zoom camera |
| The camera of choice for professional photographers | The camera of choice for the average consumer |
| All can use an external flash unit | Very few can use an external flash |
| All offer complete manual control | Not all offer manual controls |
| Capable to capture pictures in RAW or JPEG format , some can capture both in one shot | Mostly capture pictures in JPEG format only, seldom support RAW format |
DSLR cameras' sensor are much bigger and consequently much more expensive than the thumbnail-size sensors found in campat cameras. Larger sensors are the secret to why 6 megapixels from a DSLR camera beat 6 megapixels from a compact camera. To spread the same number of pixels over a larger sensor area, the pixels must be bigger. These bigger photosites gather more light, so they produce less-noisy images, capture greater dynamic range, and perform much better at high ISO settings.
Wednesday, 28 November 2007
Metering Mode
Lightmeters in digital cameras are intelligent enough to automatically determine the correct exposure for most shots so the photographer can concentrate on composing the image. They all work on the principle of measuring reflected light from the subject.
The three most common types are:
Matrix or Evaluative metering divides the image area into many small segments and analyses the readings for the best possible exposure. It is remarkably accurate in most situations.
Center-weighted metering asesses the whole image area but assigns the most importance to the central 40 to 60%. This system is accurate in average lighting conditions, but can be fooled by excessively dark or light areas. Used for general and portrait photography.
Spot metering only evaluates a small area in the center of the viewfinder so you can meter for a specific detail of the scene. Use when photographing a subject against a bright or dark background, also useful for macro photography.
Automatic exposure modes work fine for most scenes, but the meter can only see scenes as neutral gray and compensates for any deviations accordingly. So you should know when to override the meter's results. If the subject contains more than average dark or light tones you should take a substitute reading of an average gray area, lock that exposure and then recompose the image and release the shutter. Green grass or medium blue sky are good examples of average gray.
The three most common types are:
Matrix or Evaluative metering divides the image area into many small segments and analyses the readings for the best possible exposure. It is remarkably accurate in most situations.
Center-weighted metering asesses the whole image area but assigns the most importance to the central 40 to 60%. This system is accurate in average lighting conditions, but can be fooled by excessively dark or light areas. Used for general and portrait photography.
Spot metering only evaluates a small area in the center of the viewfinder so you can meter for a specific detail of the scene. Use when photographing a subject against a bright or dark background, also useful for macro photography.
Automatic exposure modes work fine for most scenes, but the meter can only see scenes as neutral gray and compensates for any deviations accordingly. So you should know when to override the meter's results. If the subject contains more than average dark or light tones you should take a substitute reading of an average gray area, lock that exposure and then recompose the image and release the shutter. Green grass or medium blue sky are good examples of average gray.
Tuesday, 20 November 2007
Focal Length
Focal lenth is the distance from the lens to the image sensor (or film), when focused on something closer than infinity, the lens is moved farther away from the image sensor. This is why most lenses get longer when you zoom In.
In 35mm photography, lenses with a focal length of 50mm are called "normal" because they work without reduction or magnification and create images the way we see the scene with our naked eyes. Focal length less than 20mm are called "Super Wide Angle", 24mm - 35m are called "Wide Angle", 80mm - 300mm are called "Tele" and beyond 300mm are called "Super Tele".
Attached eight photos were taken from the same place with Panasonic DMC-FZ8 digital camera by using different focal length from 36mm to 648mm, the 8th photo is taken with 4x digital zoom. (Digital zoom is not really zoom in the strictest definition of the term. What digital zoom does is enlarge a portion of the image, thus 'simulating' optical zoom. In other words, the camera crops a portion of the image and then enlarges it back to size. In so doing, you lose image quality.)

In 35mm photography, lenses with a focal length of 50mm are called "normal" because they work without reduction or magnification and create images the way we see the scene with our naked eyes. Focal length less than 20mm are called "Super Wide Angle", 24mm - 35m are called "Wide Angle", 80mm - 300mm are called "Tele" and beyond 300mm are called "Super Tele".
Attached eight photos were taken from the same place with Panasonic DMC-FZ8 digital camera by using different focal length from 36mm to 648mm, the 8th photo is taken with 4x digital zoom. (Digital zoom is not really zoom in the strictest definition of the term. What digital zoom does is enlarge a portion of the image, thus 'simulating' optical zoom. In other words, the camera crops a portion of the image and then enlarges it back to size. In so doing, you lose image quality.)

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